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Information and entries regarding vehicle and team preparation

Hitting the Ice Road – Vehicle Preparation for the Alcan 5000 Winter Rally PDF Print E-mail
Vehicle Preparation
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 28 January 2008 13:03

The Arctic is perhaps the most challenging environment on Earth for a motor vehicle. Where else can you drive down the middle of a river, or actually drive across an ocean? Temperatures are averaging colder than 20 below zero in February, and could potentially hit 50 below if we get caught in a cold snap.

So taking a pair of SUVs up past the 66th parallel in the dead of winter requires some careful preparation if you want to make it back with the cars and all your toes still attached.

Getting The Right Ride

We chose the new Mitsubishi Outlander XLS for this adventure. The Outlander had the right stuff in a number of areas – we liked its tall, but not too tall, stance and its driver-controlled AWD system. We can choose economical 2WD, standard AWD for lightly challenging surfaces, and full limited-slip AWD for the serious ice roads. The capable 3.0-liter V6 engine and 4-wheel disc brakes make the Outlander a confident vehicle on the snow and ice.

Inside the car, we liked the heated seats, satellite radio, GPS navigation, and the hard-disk music server. We were also grateful for the spacious interior of the cars – with three people to a vehicle, we needed some serious luggage room.

But even with the right car for the job, there’s more you have to do when you’re headed in the far North. Read on and find out.

Last Updated ( Monday, 28 January 2008 13:22 )
 
Loading Up The Mule PDF Print E-mail
Vehicle Preparation
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 28 January 2008 13:05

Alcan Rally rules require each car to carry two full-size spare tires, and the organizers recommend that each car carry some spare fuel. Any car’s fuel economy drops when the car is fully loaded, and when driving on ice and snow. When you add this to the fact that there may be up to 200 miles between fuel stations in the far north, some extra gas just makes sense.

But where can you put all this stuff? You surely don’t want to spend two weeks in a car that smells like a gas can, or share the back seat with a studded snow tire, so you need a good solution.

We chose a pair of “Mule” roof baskets from BajaRack. These wonderful creations are lightweight, steel roof carriers that will hold virtually anything. They installed in minutes using standard roof rails and are completely powder coated. They look great and are tough as nails. Into each rack, we put both our spare tires, a 5 gallon gas can, and our other “outdoor” tools and supplies. That freed up enough space inside the car to accommodate our luggage, safety gear, and ourselves.

Last Updated ( Monday, 28 January 2008 13:25 )
 
Baby Needs A New Pair of Shoes PDF Print E-mail
Vehicle Preparation
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 28 January 2008 13:07

The first challenge is getting the right tires. We didn’t want to run the better part of 5,000 miles on chains or cables, so we had to find good rubber. There’s been a lot of controversy over studded or studless tires, and we heard good arguments for both choices. Studless ice and snow tires use sipes – tiny slices in the tread blocks that allow tires to grip on ice, rather than studs that dig into the frozen surface. But in the end, we decided that as rookies in the Arctic, we’d feel better with studded tires that also feature sipes. So we chose the Hankook iPike series – we put Hankook Dynapro iPike tires on one car, and Hankook Winter iPikes on the other. The Winter iPikes are designed for higher performance, while the Dynapros are a designed SUV tire. We’ll see if one design has an advantage over the other – as well as all our competitors on other brands – when we get out on the road.

Last Updated ( Monday, 28 January 2008 13:22 )
 
Let There Be Light PDF Print E-mail
Vehicle Preparation
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 28 January 2008 13:08

The next thing we tackled was winter lighting. It’s dark about 20 hours a day in February in the Arctic, so we wanted some serious illumination in front of our vehicles. The challenge is compounded because the rally rules allow no more than 4 additional lights to be added to each car. Our Mitsubishi Outlanders came equipped with HID headlights, so we decided to stick with the same technology with a set of 8-inch KC Hilites HID rally lights for one of our cars, and a set of Hella H500s for the other. One wide-beam flood and a pencil beam light on each car should be more than enough to light up our lives.



Both Canadian Law and the rally rules require us to ensure that all lights dip to low with a single switch, and we didn’t want to take any chances with the basic vehicle wiring, so we wired up fused relays to isolate our rally lights from the headlights. This is easier to do than most people think, and the instructions on the back of the relay packet are more than sufficient for the amateur in a home garage. Simply connect the relay to the hot lead for the bright beams, and carry the main current for the rally lights straight from the battery through the relay and then to the lights. In this way, you won’t ask your vehicle’s headlight wiring to carry the extra current for the additional lights.

Last Updated ( Sunday, 10 February 2008 17:08 )
 
Fighting the Freeze PDF Print E-mail
Vehicle Preparation
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 28 January 2008 13:10
When temperatures dip down into double-digits below freezing, keeping your engine’s operating temperatures under control becomes a critical factor. The biggest problem in radically sub-zero temperatures is actually overheating. Controlling the flow of air into your radiator helps keep your engine in its normal operating range – neither too hot nor too cold.

We fashioned removable grille blanking plates for all three air access points in the cars out of thin flexible plastic. The plates can be installed in moments with plastic “zip ties” when the temperatures get too low. With the flow of fresh air blocked, we’ll need to monitor engine temps closely to know when we need to open up the flow again.

We also took our vehicles to our local Mitsubishi dealer and had them give us fresh oil (5W20 synthetic) for the journey, and we asked them to test our coolant for maximum efficiency. Engine coolant breaks down over time, and we had to make sure we had the best protection available. Our coolant proved to be good to 50-below – that is, as long as we can keep the internal temperature above that point, our coolant won’t freeze on us.

Stopping overnight presents a particular challenge to the cars. Overnight is when the temperatures will be at their lowest and also when the cars won’t be generating their own heat. In extreme temperatures, people must leave their cars running all night long, but we wanted to avoid that if possible.

To help keep our coolant and oil flowing, we installed a set of stick-on engine block heaters. These little “hot pads” need only keep the inside of the engine above 50-below to protect us from the cold. We also bought a battery blanket – another hot pad – to warm our batteries for the morning starts.

Finally, we bought 100 foot extension cords – good to 67-below – with LED service indicators, and a basic workshop drop light for each car. The drop light will hang by the radiator and serve two purposes – first it helps keep the whole engine bay warm overnight, and secondly the light serves as a simple visual cue that power is being supplied to our block and battery heaters.
 
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